The mountainous Macedon Ranges in Victoria is the coolest wine region of Australia: in July and August there is even some snow. As Phillip and Jeni Moraghan concerns the perfect place to plant pinot noir to a modest family business. Moraghan lived in Switzerland for a while, was a big fan of Burgundy wines and decided to produce that type of wines in Australia in 1991.

The art of inactivity
The pinot vines, planted at an altitude of 500 meters on volcanic basalt, are led along the wires to give them a maximum of sun and wind (against pests and diseases). "My philosophy is: 80% of winemaking happens in the vineyard, which is the most of the work," according to Phil Moraghan, who stopped using herbicides and insecticides in 2005 to practice biodynamics. "What we do in the winery, is a quality check, winemaking is a natural process. I let the natural yeasts do their own thing and without doing to much myself. I call it the masterful art of inactivity."

Smooth, elegant, fresh
On a stormy winter day we sit together with the thick red cat, at the fireplace in Curly Flats huge cellar door and taste the range, which consists pinot noir, chardonnay and a little pinot gris. 2007 Chardonnay swings between fresh and creamy and apple and gives a subtle hint of new oak where the wine has been aged for 18 months.
The 2005 Pinot Noir has a delicate fragrance of not only dried cranberries and raspberry, but also subtle fruity flavor, although you could also discern almond.

2006 Pinot Noir is a little 'greener' and more likely to smell to asparagus, artichokes and earth, has something dusty, but is especially subtle and fresh.
Also fresh is the 2007 Pinot Noir, although it seems somewhat 'darker': more blackberries and black cherries with a berry like, dry finish.

Difficult grape
Each are sensual, vibrant, elegant wines directly from the fields around: Moraghan does not buy grapes from others and does not sell its fruit either. Real terroir wines. "I like to make wines that show where they come from. Pinot noir is a difficult grape to grow, but if it succeeds the wine tells you something about that place."

I say, great place to visit!

Cellar Door Open: weekend days 13 -17 hours

This article was written in July 2010 by Trouw Journalist Remke de Lange. For more wine articles: www.remkedelange.nl This article is copyrighted