WINE FOR THE PEOPLE (AND THE ENVIRONMENT)
Can producing wine be a political statement? Today I am a guest at Banrock Station in the Riverland wine region. Here everything seems to go for quantity. Just some numbers: Riverland takes one third of the annual Australian wine production for its account and sixty percent of the wine production in the state of South Australia. Banrock Station is part of Berri Estates, Australia's Largest winery, near my motel (trucks are driving up and on even at night), and thus part of Constellation Wines Australia, by volume the largest wine producer in the world.

That Riverland, despite summer temperatures of around forty degrees and the sandy, poor soil, can grow so many grapes (and many other fruits), is because of the Murray River. Irrigation is the magic word. But that water luxury cannot be taken for granted anymore. Because of the drought for many years now, water is scarce and expensive, and the dams that were built early twentieth century with enthusiasm (and pride), have disturbed all kinds of natural processes in the river. That some land in winter is too wet and in summer too dry, is no longer an exception. With many ecological consequences: impoverishment and salinisation of the soil, and the disappearance of plants and animals that use to live here. In short, many people worry about the Murray River and its banks.

You could almost say: how can you still produce wines when you know that the industry contributes to the deterioration of the landscape? The short answer is simple, explains Banrock Station wine maker Paul Burnett: because you can produce a bottle of wine, under these circumstances, for the price of about $ 10. That's a perfectly legitimate aim, of course, for well-made, but affordable wines: no wooden barrels, but wooden chips, no complex flavors that have to develop but easy drinkable wines for a barbecue. Would not we want that all?

The long answer is that Banrock Station wine within the multinational is rather an example of green progressiveness development. In the vineyards is a "drip irrigation" system (where water dropwise is divided near the trunk), largely underground, hidden under compost that keeps the soil longer moist. The labels are made from recycled paper and they are busy experimenting with new packaging materials to replace the heavy glass. Furthermore, says Burnett, Mediterranean grape varieties have been introduced that are more resistant to drought and salty soils, such as Albariño and the Tempranillo in Spain which stand well in heat. "During the heat wave we had in February, you could have fainted at the Shiraz, but not the Tempranillo: bring on the heat!"

Are the grape growers of whom Banrock Station become the grape also that involved to save water? Paul: "We cannot force anyone, but we encourage them." But when you consider that grape growers not make such large profits as the wineries, you might wonder whether they can invest in smart irrigation systems. "Water is becoming more scarce and therefore expensive, so it will go into that direction," said Paul.

When in 1994 the vineyards were in the hands of Hardy's it was not only the purpose of Banrock Station to do in 'green' wine business, but also an environmental project. That last part has been perhaps the biggest success story. The Wine & Wetland Centre, where wine and eco-friendly information in a way come together, is a cleverly designed building with a fantastic terrace where visitors can rest before or after a stroll along the wooden walkways through the wetlands. Wetlands are those areas of land along the river which are under natural conditions under water during floods and at other times dry. Because of all the dams and locks many of those lands were changed in either permanently wet or permanent dry areas. Banrock Station has ensured that the wetlands are again what they were by organising Murray-water twice a year in a way that there are again wet and dry seasons.

I have a feeling Tony Sharley, manager of the W & W Center, finds few things more fun than the Banrock foraging area that is fenced in order to ward off foxes and to protect cats and other animals. We drive in his 4x4, discuss the centuries-old eucalyptus trees, look for fossils shells from the time the ocean levels had a much higher standing, seeing a handful of kangaroos hopping, walking on the docks and watch ducks and other birds of which I forgot the name immediately. And oh yes, we also see a snake in the tall grass. Well, Tony, of course, because I was looking the other way. It all looks great, it's a beautiful piece of nature.

But how does it rhyme all those green commitment with a company that makes millions of liters of wine – if you see the "wine town" that Berri Estates seems to be, then you ask immediately what is the ecological footprint of this industry. "The very fact that the winery is dependent on the Murray River, makes people realise that you should cherish that landscape and ensure that the river is healthy and stays healthy," Tony replied. Banrock Station is not just a green flagship? Yes, says Tony, but also an example which Banrock uses for other wine labels. But all these birds, snails, rats, flowers, butterflies, mussels, fish, bats, Bilbies (rabbit-like marsupials), geckos and snakes are found here now, that's what the shareholders and investors do not care about? Of course, admits Tony: there must be earned money.

For now it seems to fit well. The Banrock Station wines sell well - and with the purchase of a bottle give you some of your money directly to the wetlands. The wetlands project was so successful that it has received several awards including a grant from the Australian government for ecotourism. Banrock Station is even internationally well-known: a few years ago, Tony Sharley was in the Netherlands for the opening of the 'Banrock Marshes' nature restoration project in national park De Weerribben got off the ground with a donation of Banrock.

And the Banrock Station wine? The so-called "entry-level wines" that Paul Burnett erves pour the Moscato and Cabernet Crimson, both quite sweet and with a low alcohol content, are not my favorites: I 'boarded already a long time ago', I do not fall for this kind of marketing gimmicks. The Chardonnay is a little too heavy, the Shiraz has a nice start, but dissipates rather quickly. The Cabernet - Shiraz blend however I find nice and firm and full. But I'm most excited about the fresh Albariño and Vermentino: fruity, delicate, pleasant white wines. Fairly new at Banrock’s assortment and thus not made in enormous quantities. But that will change, predicts Pau. Everything is just great in Riverland.

Opening hours
The restaurant is open every day from 10.00 to 17.00 pm except on Good Friday, Christmas and New Year. Tasting is also possible.

This article was created on March 23, 2009 by journalist Remke de Lange. For more wine articles: www.remkedelange.nl. This article is copyrighted